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Kyoto and Nara: the temples, will you? In here.

Kyoto is littered with temples (in 2000), each more grandiose than each other, but not only. There are also castles, parks and a multitude of small very quiet, intimate, lined with ancient houses flanked by their meticulous Japanese garden. That's really the antithesis of Tokyo, this point of agitation or excessive buildings. A common point anyway, the most famous sites are swamped by tourists Remember all want their picture under the cherry tree in bloom at this time of hanami. Kyoto was the imperial capital of Japan from the 9th to the 19th century.


Arriving around noon, I quickly dropped my bag to my new guest house before heading out to explore Kyoto. I started with the eastern zone, bounded by a small river on one side and the mountain on the other. Besides low mountains surround the city on all sides. This area called Higashiyama, is certainly the most visited spot in Kyoto. To get there from Central Station, I went to side of the temple Higashi Hongan-Ji. This is a Buddhist temple. This temple was established in 1607 by Shogun Ieyasu, Japan's reunification at the beginning of the Edo era. It is gigantic, all wood, very impressive. It asked the decor.

arrived in the Higashiyama district, I headed to Kiyomizu-dera, another much older Buddhist temple, built in 798. It is divided into several buildings including a beautiful 3-story pagoda, and has a small garden with a fountain supposed therapeutic properties. Dozens of people lined up to drink its water. A little later, I went through a network of small shopping streets fully paved, armored souvenir shops but still charming. In the crossing, we find ourselves in a park with a venerable and venerated cherry. It started to rain, which did not prevent some groups of young people to drink their sake irreducible under trees and under umbrellas.

from temple to temple, I came up with the one-Gi nightfall. This is the geisha district, there are still a hundred to a thousand in Tokyo on all Japan. Gi-on is crossed by a small river where willows and cherry trees bend beautifully lit, it's really beautiful. I did not see geisha, but I ate to comfort me a kind of Japanese pancake salt alongside a geisha plastic.

The next day I attacked the northwestern part of Kyoto, including the famous Kinkaku-ji or Golden Pavilion. This 3-storey pagoda which two are covered with gold leaf borders a small pond in the middle of a park. It dates from 1397 and served as a retreat to the Shogun Yoshimistu (the shoguns, what are the great military generals who have ruled Japan during its feudal period, from the 12th to the 19th century. There was at that time - and there still has - an emperor, but without real power). The surrounding areas are widely available in temples and gardens, but I'm too lazy to describe them all. I rented a bike for the day. It allowed me to see many of these landmarks, but mostly outside the box to venture a little chance and discover magical places full of small and deserted. I ended my day with a visit to Nijo Castle and imperial gardens. This is where the third snowstorm hit the day and convinced me to go warm.


Today I visited Nara. In short, it is an ancient capital of Japan in the 8th century. There is - also - an area of temples, but those were the good taste to be almost all clustered in a garden, still quite wide. Among them, the Todai-ji is particularly impressive. It is the largest wooden building in the world, housing a bronze Buddha 15 meters tall (one ear = 2.54 m). 2.6 million people (yes, a lot) have worked to construction of the temple and the Buddha, under the leadership of Emperor Shomu in 743. The project would even seriously threatened the financial reserves of Japan. The Emperor hoped by this effort to end a great epidemic of smallpox.

Before I went to Nara, I made a halt of two hours at the Shinto shrine Fushimi-Inari. Originally, Inari is the goddess of grain (abundance, fertility ...). It is symbolized by a fox to look mean a statue that sits around the sanctuary. Fushimi-Inari is installed on the side of a mountain outside Kyoto. It consists of several small shrines scattered throughout the mountains and connected by a path of orange and black frames, carrying prayers written in Japanese characters. There are thousands, the path is 4 km. It made me think of the Yellow Brick Road Wizard of Oz, even if it has nothing to do. It is an exceptional hiking, strange, mystical and very kind to both, the path through the middle of the forest. It was beautiful for once, and snow the day before dripping trees into a fine rain. I was almost alone at the top of the road, had realized early on the scene, it allowed me to fully enjoy the place.


is difficult to summarize Kyoto and Nara, given the richness of what is there. In any case it is a radical change of scenery after Tokyo, I have a feeling that my surprises in Japan are not finished.

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Aboard the Shinkansen Tokyo - Kyoto

Here I am en route to the Kansai, in the famous Shinkansen:) To be well placed and try to see Mount Fuji, I'm losing a lung in the smoking car. That's where the only seats available were right window. People not stop to sit next to me the time to do a smoke and leave their car in quiet non-smoker ... Next time I book! And I suspect that most clouds hide the mountain tops: /

Within a week I think I made a first visit to Tokyo quite broad, ending yesterday by the districts of Roppongi and Odaiba. Before going to Odaiba, Friday, I spent several hours at the Tokyo National Museum, which this time was much more conventional open ^ ^ that the Edo-Tokyo Museum, it consists of several large buildings ( Japan gallery, gallery Asian gallery archaeological ...). Gallery Japan presents chronologically the history of Japan, installation of the first inhabitants to 30,000 at the end of the Edo era (1868). Including a collection of samurai armor and swords from the 12th to the 19th century, some in their lacquered scabbard. Around 13h I made a little nap in the excellent leather seats on the archaeological gallery, they think all these Japanese - whew, I just enjoy the downhill at the first stop for passengers to change cars, and a squatter place non-smoking window:)


After the museum, I took the metro towards Odaiba, an island in Tokyo Bay covered with commercial area and the seats few large companies. A mini-Statue of Liberty was installed. In malls Odaiba, it's not just stores, far from it. Among others there are several amusement parks. Among them, the "Muscle Park" offers physical activities for children and teens. For example Frisbee with targets, musical games where you have to repeat a melody more and more complicated ... etc. A little later in the gallery is a giant park SEGA video game, Tokyo Joypolis. Another area of the island offers a shopping center where the decor is supposed to represent an Italian city, there are fountains, fake Roman columns in buildings, and a false ceiling is painted sky! Strangely the names of "streets" are in French ... A second Toyota museum is housed therein, with this time of the ancient and prestigious cars of all brands of Chevrolet, Cadillac, and even a dodoche Delorean:) Anyway, everything is done to Odaiba for the barge can feel comfortable and have fun while doing his shopping.

Yesterday, the last day in Tokyo, I decided to visit the districts of Roppongi and Akasaka. A temple of the 17th century, Zojoji, dated 1605, is set amid a sumptuous garden. There is, except the cherry blossoms, statues, ancient trees and a huge bell. Just behind the main building of the temple stands the Tokyo Tower, ugly copy of the Eiffel Tower but beyond a few feet - I just made a cross on the Fujiyama, the sky is definitely too cloudy ... Roppongi is a district renowned for its nightlife (bars, restaurants and nightclubs). There are also two giant shopping malls, to change, called Tokyo Midtown and Roppongi Hills. The latter also serves as a cultural center, it houses several museums and events such as Roppongi Night which took place at the moment I passed (I did not understand the theme but a huge ball-shaped robot cyclops floated at the foot of the towers, with the J-pop background music).


So there I went to explore the South of Japan, starting with Kyoto, the undisputed cultural capital. I have booked 4 nights. This should allow me to spend two days in Kyoto and two days around within reach of train - Nara, Osaka and Mount Koya.

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Despite the rain, the discovery of a visit Tokyo continues

It is two days a really rotten time on Tokyo. Cold, drizzling rain, pervert and continuous background of low clouds and gray. A thankless but nonetheless favorable time to visit museums, exhibitions and markets. What I used my last two days.

Wednesday I went to 10 hours of the guest house the museum management Edo-Tokyo. In my dorm, almost all of the occupants were still under the duvet when I left, discouraged by the gloom. The museum consists of two parts: the so-called Edo period (17th until the mid 19th), former name of Tokyo as Kyoto was the capital of Japan, and the period of 1868 (date of restoration of the empire under the Meiji dynasty) to today. Models of Edo Castle, detailed explanations on the lives of warriors, merchants, nobles and common people, period costumes, manuscripts and printed books spread out along a very pleasant journey. The museum itself is a huge hall with 6 floors, including 2 dedicated to the permanent exhibition. In the section on modern Tokyo, you understand how Japan, previously very isolated, opened under the Emperor Meiji to the world. A section is also devoted to earthquakes, another in the 39-45 war and the bombing that destroyed much of Tokyo. Upon leaving I made a quick tour of the Sumo Museum, which is actually a tiny gallery outlining the colorful costumes of several generations of referees, Gyoji, armed with their kind of pan pizza (the gunbai). A TV broadcast of the fighting in explaining different techniques.

Today I got up at dawn to go to the Tsukiji fish market, just the world's largest of its kind. After passing through a loading area for trucks, you come to the market where wholesalers refourguent fish bought at auction earlier to retailers. There are approximately 700 stands, crossed by small lanes which do not stop moving workers on foot or in a small cargo transport of goods. So be careful not to interfere with workers, and not getting crushed. The excitement is high among those who cut fish, store it in polystyrene boxes, stack boxes, transport boxes, ranging from congélos to run stalls in the alleys where no one knows why. At the bottom of each pit stands a small counter
held mostly by women. Men and women manipulate matter. I think I saw all kinds of fish, crustaceans, molluscs and I knew, and many others that I did not know. Also I now know where is the bluefin tuna that would begin to fail in our oceans: the Tsukiji market stalls, dozens, hundreds, thousands of pounds. It delivers bluefin tuna with a vengeance. A Shortly before I arrived (around 7am), the auction had ended. It seems that the show is worth seeing, but hey I saw not too get up at 4am.


On leaving I walked in the Ginza district - always in the gray and the rain I would remind you - to admire the iconic scene of Kabukiza, wedged between buildings and modern skyscrapers and chic sky-business. The theater burned down, destroyed by earthquakes, then by the bombing, finally rebuilt in 1951, is promised for the destruction in one or two weeks to be replaced on the horizon 2013 by a more modern room, to the dismay of supporters of the beautiful building ... I could stop lunch at Asterix for the trip, but it was still a little early ^ ^

Instead, I made a break for lunch at the guest house, the time of booking my hotel in Kyoto, and this afternoon I strolled through the shops of Ikebukuro, the shopping mecca in Tokyo. A mall is housed in a tower of 60 floors and has the sweet name of Sunshine City. It includes, inter alia, an aquarium, a planetarium, and two floors of restaurants in themed environments (sponsored by the giant NAMCO video game). The auto show Toyota is right next door, you can admire the latest models and make a game of Gran Turismo seats that move in all directions:) A little later, the street is the Otome for the neighborhood Akiba (this district dedicated to anime and manga), but for girls. This means basically that the stories of various high school and heroines are all cute replaced by stories of high school cute. I borrowed a discreet staircase to go into one of these stores, and I found myself surrounded by about fifty teenagers absorbed into radiation. The cashiers were in good laugh Seeing me, this is apparently not uncommon to see a guy in these highly specialized bookstores ^ ^ I quickly turned around to go and dine in a restaurant of ramen and tempura (fried vegetables fish or meat) , far more welcoming:) Fingers crossed for a lull in heaven tomorrow!

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very convincing some districts of Tokyo

I do not know where to start so I saw things in two days in Tokyo ... It's huge, bustling, and there's something for everyone. Luxury shopping streets, others for more modest budgets for young people, older people, and business districts, residential neighborhoods, parks, shrines, markets, concerts, etc. ... Every day I choose one or two districts in one area and I visit on foot. Yesterday, I chose to start Shibuya, Omotesando Street with its famous "Champs Elysees" Japanese. Actually no, I did not choose, it's Sun-Min, a girlfriend with whom I Mag party at the weekend in Korea, which offered me the neighborhood for lunch. We ate a meal of Gyoza, Japanese dumplings with pork, grilled and / or boiled. We might be close to the street with stores Gucci, Cartier and company, the price was quite reasonable. She left his side, I headed to the shrine built in memory of Emperor Meiji and his wife in 1920. 100 000 trees were planted at the time and now form a beautiful forest in the city. Just next door is the Yoyogi Park, where thousands of Japanese are walking with or without (s): Chihuahua (s), peak-they communicate, train at baseball or discuss posed in the grass. It must be said that Monday was a holiday, I think the park was particularly busy.

a few minutes, the Harajuku district, and his street Takeshita-Dori. There are dozens of shops of clothes for teens, glaciers and cheap bars. The street was literally shielded from teens, including a lot of chicks dressed in goth-loli. Stores expose leather costumes, costumes of the waitresses, jackets and t-shirt rock, among others ... This district has the famous cosplay place every weekend (girls and boys dressed in everything and anything, maids, anime characters, etc. ...). Definitely go check it out Saturday: D I'm back on the side of Omotesando, and further, to the impressive hub of Shibuya. En route I saw a piece of heavy metal concert in the street in front United Nations University ... Incredibly, even grandmas Y'avait that moved rhythmically. When I think here the music is demonized: / So come in Shibuya, was the caricature of the intersection with thousands of pedestrians crossing at the same time. In a small corner of the square, a small statue of a faithful dog named Hachiko is picture taken by lots of people. After the death of his master, this little dog came back for 10 years at the same place, at the Shibuya station. It was the place where he was accompanying to work every day of her lifetime.

few subway stops away, I was in Shinjuku, a district of skyscrapers to the west of Tokyo. I got into the building of Tokyo Metropolitan Government, there is an observatory on the 45th floor. The day being very clear, the view of Tokyo was great. Going down I did a walk through the streets electric-fed electronics stores, then I went in Kabukicho, right side. It's an entertainment district with theaters, restaurants, massage rooms, whole buildings and especially video games and slot machines. The game master is the pachinko finally with its modern screens and lights in all directions. It's a machine where the balls were introduced that fall into a small maze of nails, and from time to time a ball falls into the right hole and triggers gain plenty of other balls. In late trade the player logs (if he remains in
...) cons of the lots. It's impressive that there noise in these rooms, and diversity of players of all ages and both sexes. Each machine is equipped with a small ashtray, the air is smoky, the players are like zombies it's too loud: D I'd be a few games this week for sure! In any case there are rooms in all districts, I spotted near Asakusa, where is my guest house.

Now, to summarize, I visited another park in the district of Ueno. I had to visit the national museum but it was closed. The cherry trees begin to bud and tinted pink, this is a real institution here. In the aisles everyone takes a picture with the cherry, it's true it's very pretty, but good. When they are fully into something, they are really thorough. By the way I still visited a small cemetery behind the museum. The graves are beautiful, some have a small landscaped garden and sometimes decorated with a few large bonsai. Large wooden slats covered with Japanese characters are placed behind or in front of each grave, this is the name of the deceased as I understand. I then went to see another small shrine hidden in the middle rounds, then I went through a fish market and dry fruit in a street called Ameyoko. The night I was on the side of the imperial palace gardens, but it was a little late and I turned down Akihabara. This is another landmark of geekery and japanimation, with many a consumer electronics stores and game rooms At this point there were more buildings dedicated to manga, anime and products derivatives (figurines, posters etc..). 5th floor of one of these buildings, I ended up at the Home Cafe. This is a place where the waitresses are dressed as a servant and qualify customers "master" or "mistresses". It is possible to make them sing or play with them to get discounts. I note that none of this is sexual, it's just a little role-playing crazy in the trip cosplay. The area has several of these "Maid Cafes", and chicks dressed in the kind distribute leaflets in the street. I had gone for coffee, but when I realized he had to pay just to have the right to sit down, I turned around. And while it's not only super fun ...

Here is a summary of my first two days I tried to make it short and voluntarily zapped many details - I spent my time to hallucinate. This city is really class, and despite what some purists say Japan, I confirm that manga and games of all kinds are an important part of Japanese culture (at least the Japanese from Tokyo), along their excellent food!

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My Korean tour ended with a visit to the city of Jeonju and Gongju (yes many cities Korean ending in-Ju). I enjoyed Jeonju is a major city of 650,000 inhabitants which has the double benefit of being a mecca of Korean cuisine and ancient spiritual capital of the Joseon Dynasty (the dynasty that created even the Grand Palace in Seoul). Part of the city, called Hanok village, contains royal buildings, a beautiful church in the twentieth, museums, and about 800 of these traditional houses called Hanok. Walking is very pleasant, the streets are quiet, some lined creeks, and there are exhibitions and galleries every 10 meters. Regarding the kitchen, I allowed myself a few Jeonju bibimbap (30 ingredients) and a memorable Bulgogi, marinated beef barbecue.

I will not spend less on the second city, Gongju. There are some royal tombs, including that of Muryeong king of Baekje about the year 500 (Paekche is one of the famous Three Kingdoms of the first millennium). However impossible to visit a museum by cons right side offers a reconstruction and outlines some of the objects found inside (jewelry, statues ...). The place where graves are located looks like a real golf course, you can not see anything special, all entries are closed. Gong ju also had a temple that I have not had time to visit: / I must say that I lost some time in the bus connections these days, the service is minimized in this region.

Back in Seoul, I spent my days visiting the district of Insadong, composed of small winding streets with cafes, antique shops and traditional restaurants in number. A beautiful palace, Changdeokgung, borders Insadong. He acted as the secondary palate at the beginning of the Joseon Dynasty and has gained importance as and when the centuries. His style is very similar to the first palace visited the Gyeongbokgung. I admired during a tour of 1 hour and a half which featured the many neighborhoods of the king and courtiers, the imposing gates and especially the beautiful secret garden with its water bodies.

I also mounted the Seoul Tower, a short half-hour from Magali. I have found my teddy the changing of the guard, who certainly follow me everywhere! The tower itself is rather ugly, but the view of Seoul at 360 degrees is superb. On the fence bordering one of the viewing platforms, thousands of locks of love accompanied by soft words were hung by symbolically couples, as on the Pont des Arts. Mag yesterday and I've seen a little show weekly dance and traditional music at Seoul Art Center, after which we proudly celebrated three weeks in the bars around Hongik.

Here I come to Tokyo, the guesthouse is great (well I think I'll hear my snoring companions dorm that night, but otherwise it's clean, equipped, well located). I made a small first round of appreciation to Asakusa district, it looks really nice and lively. I must say that after a meal with salmon and tuna rillettes on the plane, I was in a good mood from the outset to enjoy Japan ... I'll try to confirm this first impression at the restaurant tonight:)

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The ancient capital of Silla and the park Jirisan

Before leaving the country with my cousin, I stayed two days in Seoul. Turning a trip to City Hall, I stumbled upon the changing of the guard of the palace Deoksugung. The festive atmosphere on the sidelines of the event contrasted with the seriousness of the guards. Before the main gate of the palace, a stand proposed to try period costumes. Types dressed in teddy bear hopped on and took up the pose with Japanese tourists, all against a backdrop of military music. The Tonight we had dinner in a restaurant that offered a traditional Hanjeongsik, meals "a thousand banchan", these little cups that accompany the main course. There was maybe not a thousand, but at least three dozen, vegetables, seafood, soups ... The waitress has taken five minutes to put them all on the table. It was a treat, as usual.

We're back in the south-eastern Korea, the tourist city of Gyeongju. He is the former seat of the Silla dynasty, one of the three kingdoms that made up the country in the first millennium. The city is dotted with mini-historic sites. Walking is soon see a huge green bumps, these are the tombs of kings and nobility of Silla. 23 of them are arranged in a park in downtown. Farther still a tower which served as an observatory, in the 7th century, saved from destruction by the Japanese. All other buildings on the corner (fortresses, temples, castles ...) no longer exist, although some have been partially rebuilt in the 70 or 80. But most sites are simply marked with a display panel, you have to work on his imagination to picture the capital city as it was at the time of its splendor.

A few kilometers, the temple of Bulguksa stands on a hillside. He too was razed during the occupation, but Korea has completely rebuilt. While the archaeological work is impeccable, I have some difficulties to immerse myself in these faux-ancient sites, though highly popular with tourists. A few kilometers further up the mountain, a Buddha is housed in a niche called rocky cave Seokguram, surrounded by his guards. The night we went out drinking in a small bar Soju not far from our hotel. In fact the hotel, there is a room with two mattresses fine, the ondol, placed directly on the ground. In this bar, the waitress brought us a variety of snacks to accompany drinks, including a bowl of caterpillars. I tried, I honestly thought it was not very good ... Taste and texture of soil. By cons girlfriend Mag seemed to appreciate, it must be a matter of habit ^ ^

Despite the weather, I went the next day I walk to the National Park Jirisan. The short hike began with a visit to a Buddhist temple Ssangyesa, dated the 8th century (but always the same story, the Japanese destroyed and rebuilt very recently). It was Monday, and this time I was alone in the temple. As the temple of Insa-Gu, Ssangyesa is in several buildings, and the path to enter the prayer hall through a spiritual journey symbolized by three large doors richly decorated. Behind the temple, a small path in the forest allows you to waterfalls buril Popko, a few miles away. The trail is steep and winding along the river, the steps are irregular and quite high, it's short enough sports! The scenery is superb, the light rain and fog add to the charm of the forest. In the evening I wanted to go to Jeonju, my next destination, but the schedules of buses have decided otherwise, I had to do an intermediate step to Gurye, a small town in the mountains.

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Andong, an overview of Korean life of yesteryear

return to Seoul a few days after shipping, I took the weekend to settle some administrative problems (air tickets, visa, Japan Rail Pass ...) and restaus make some with my cousin. This weekend we start in South Korea, Gyeongju, capital of the Silla Dynasty in the first millennium: temples, tombs and ruins
variety should be at the rendezvous.

Andong Area, where I spent two days Earlier this week, proved rewarding. About twenty kilometers from the city, a small traditional village of the 15th was preserved, and families live in collaboration with the government. It's pretty weird to see big stylish cars in front of the ancient gates of houses. At the time of my visit, the village called Hano, was covered with snow, and I was the only visitor before a Korean tourist buses will join me. Hano has a hundred traditional houses, some of which can be visited.

They range from the modest farmhouse roof of straw to the rich and beautiful of the noble pagoda. Of signs in English, Korean and Japanese provide details on the people, lifestyles and architecture. At the center of the village sits a century-old tree was apparently the case in all villages in the area at the time. It is protected on one side by the river, the other by the hills. Rice paddies and small decorative water bodies are maintained in the immediate vicinity of the village ... Everything is done to encourage the visitor's immersion in the Korean medieval atmosphere, and it succeeded!

returned to Andong, I left my hotel an hour to walk towards Andong Dam. The huge building required the relocation of several villages. A typical village (another!) Was built for the nearby dam. By cons it is empty, ghostly, houses are open to the four winds, it looks like the nuclear test village "The Hills Have Eyes". I found the atmosphere less involved than Hano, though the site was used to achieve several historic films. Anyway, a folklore museum is located next door, and his visit is worthwhile. It is not very big but the explanations in English are provided. I especially liked a passage about the games in the villages the past. These games were all part of the village men, divided into two teams (East vs. West). Re-enactments take place from time to time at festivals in Korea, and the show is awesome.

I could not pass without Andong enrich my culinary culture, so I made two restaurants. A dinner of grilled succulent mackerel, and a Korean barbecue lunch the next day. The image with the meal had three pieces of pork, with a listed price of 7,000 Won (4.5 €). It seemed rather cheap and I have dark. It was super good, the meat was much more than correct, I really enjoyed myself. When paying the bill, the guy made me understand that 7000 was the Won price of a single piece of meat meal corresponding to a normal person: / So I had to pay for three meals, but frankly it was worth it. Life is not easy when you do not understand anything and that people do not speak a word of English: / Anyway I will definitively Korean food:)

I dedicate this message to my camera who passed away. The poor man has probably resented the shift of 30 degrees to 0 degrees Indian Korean. I sent him to recover his health in the workshop and should recover in a few weeks ...

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Seoraksan under the snow and the treasures of Danyang

Sunday morning, Mag and I visited the National Park Seoraksan, near Sokcho, in an atmosphere for the less polar. The snow was falling continuously, which does not seem to interfere with the many visitors Koreans. Towards the entrance stands a giant Buddha, waiting patiently for the return of warm weather. 20 to 30 cms of snow prevented a clear view of the trail, but we followed a few kilometers of footsteps to lead to waterfalls, before turn back. In normal times you can see cliffs, rocky peaks and a vegetation lush. This time, fog and snow could not see far away but instead conferred a calm and pleasant. We parted at 13h it to return to Seoul, I to continue south and reach the next destination, Danyang.

I had to take 3 buses to get to Danyang. A Jecheon, one of the steps, I enjoyed a classic but effective bibimbap. It is a dish of vegetables and rice covered with a fried egg, and presented with a multitude of small dishes containing accompaniments. While at home the meal is a plate, in Korea the table is covered with mini dishes in which everyone pecks. The Koreans are also avid meat eaters, their barbecues are excellent. In short, I arrived at the destination at 20h. Danyang is wedged between a mountain and a large river that goes around. I found a comfortable hotel overlooking the River. Although prices are incomparable with India, but for twenty Euros a room was nickel, with TV, fridge, internet, floor heating and heating in the bed sometimes. On TV a lot of nonsense and silliness, but also games of Starcraft and Warcraft 3, what tape a little while:)

A Danyang, I started by exploring the cave Gosudonggul. The corner is full and it was deemed the most interesting. It covers a little less than 2 km, which travels along metal stairs and walkways. Some passages are very narrow and need to do a bit of contortionist. I was absolutely alone in the cave, it makes a weird feeling. This is definitely not the season for tourists, but to visit a cave in season does not change much. I could admire at leisure the concretions very well developed, some are sublime. I then did a tour along the river to one end or one of Danyang sees rocky peaks rising from the water and topped by a small pagoda. This morning before leaving for Andong, I visited the complex Buddhist insa-Gu, 20km from Danyang. It is a succession of 34 giant decorated pagodas, built in a narrow valley and steep . It is the headquarters of the Buddhist order Tien Ta, claiming unite one million faithful. Construction was begun in 1945 and continues today. This mini-village religious ultra clean, everything looks new and the people are peaceful. A trail of a thousand small steps climbing one of the sides of the valley and leads to the tomb of the founder. The faithful gather there, the place is located atop a small hill offering a beautiful panorama of snow.

The train took me to Andong, where I remained until tomorrow before returning to Seoul. I intended to use my end of the afternoon to go to the Folk Museum, a few miles from downtown, but the bus passed me without stopping. This bus only goes once an hour, and poor little old lady who was waiting with me seemed confusing ... No problem, I will go tomorrow after my visit to the village folk Hahoe:)

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Seoul and Sokcho by night in the snow

is the weekend:) My cousin kindly accompanied me to 4 o'clock bus Seoul, on the east coast, in the small city of Sokcho. After an hour the landscape of residential areas, the concrete towers by the hundreds, the scenery has changed dramatically. Small wooded hills appeared and then were transformed into snow-covered mountains. I even saw a ski slope by the way! As we advanced the fog covered everything, and arrived at our destination, a small icy rain has come through the atmosphere of war movie. We are also a few kilometers from the DMZ, an area that separates the two Koreas. On entering the city, the sea appeared, and to my surprise we saw Sick of surfers in the gray suit ... Sokcho bordered on one side the sea, on the other side of a park that we're supposed to visit tomorrow morning. This aprem, given the weather, we took a little walk near the harbor in search of hot coffee:)

Yesterday I did a little walk around the neighborhood Samcheong not far from the royal palace in Seoul. You can see traditional Korean houses, among the many museums (including the Art Museum of chicken), upscale restaurants, art galleries and antique shops. The road passes near the residence of the Prime Minister, highly guarded, then climbs a hill with a small park at the top, desert in the winter but still charming. Going down I found the Korean with whom I spent some days in Bombay, Hee-Jung. She took me to the main Buddhist temple in Seoul, Jogyesa. It is a large pagoda decorated with paintings depicting the life of Buddha, covered with floral motifs. Within three huge golden Buddha, and prayers by the thousands on the ceiling. We arrived during a prayer. A monk sitting before the statues recited a text (even incomprehensible to Hee-Jung) and several dozen Korean meditating on carpets. The area is full of palaces of all kinds, I will make a further round next week.
Hee-Jung then accompanied me to a Korean restaurant where we ate a kind of pie octopus sipping rice wine sparkling, rather nice:) Later we went to a bar crowded with students and young workers, where Mag joined us. The restaus are smashing, the service is fast, flawless, there are even buttons at the corner of each table to call the server. Besides the cash in our restaurant, a girl offered its services harvester white hair. The neighborhood streets are lively at that hour, and it's like that every night by my two acolytes. People are much happier that day, it smells of grilled meat, lights flashing neon signs in all directions. Small stalls offering snacks, sweet and salty. On the facades of buildings, giant screens pounding their stupid commercials. On returning by subway, about midnight, I saw many Korean drunk. They do not seem to pretend when they picolent here ... It seems that if you go at night in a bar or restaurant with your boss, you are obliged to stay until it goes away and you have to drink everything you serve. What customs friendly!